Eva and I recently visited Azerbaijan. The trip started with a flight from Frankfurt to Baku. Apparently the only European cities which have direct flights to Baku are Frankfurt and Warsaw. In saying this I am not counting Moscow as being in Europe, which is based more on emotional then geographical factors. There are several flights a day between Baku and Moscow and the relationship between Azerbaijan and Russia seems quite good. At the airport in Baku I was surprised that there was a flight coming from Tel Aviv. This is perhaps a reflection of the fact that although the great majority of the inhabitants of Azerbaijan are Muslims there is a strict separation of religion and state. There were less women to be seen wearing obviously Muslim dress in Baku than in Mainz. In Baku there is a large statue representing a woman throwing off her veil.
Part of our flight was over the Black Sea and on the map there was a point where our subjective distance to Sebastopol was not very great. I know that in the last few years terrible things have been happening in the Ukraine, At the same time it all seemed to me very far away. Passing Sebastopol made it more real.
While we were in Baku we experienced some very strong winds. Perhaps it could be called the Chicago of the Orient. I also see a certain analogy between the Caspian Sea and Lake Michigan. The city of Baku appears modern and it has quite a few high-rise buildings. The most striking of these are the Flame Towers. They are already striking in the daytime due to their being in the form of flames. This is enhanced during the night due to the dynamic lighting. The use of flames as symbols has to do with the deposits of gas and oil near Baku. In earlier centuries there were flames coming out of the ground and this was important for the development of the Zoroastrian religion. We visited a fire temple. This is now a museum. There is still a flame but it is now fed with gas artificially. Here I heard the idea that Zoroastrianism can be thought of as a predecessor of Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Around Baku there are still oil fields on land and these remind me of pictures I have seen from the US. In fact Baku was the first place where mechanical oil drilling started, before it did so in the US. Another architectural highlight in Baku is the spectacular Heydar Aliyev Center. Outside the building there are curious sculptures of animals and we were immediately reminded of similar sculptures we had seen at Ground Zero in New York. In fact it turns out that both sets of statues are due to the same artists, Gillie and Marc.
In the West Mikhael Gorbachev is usually seen as a very positive figure. The picture of him in Azerbaijan is a very different one. In January 1990 he sent troops to Baku to crush anti-government protests. As a result more than a hundred protestors were killed. We saw their graves which display pictures of them. He later said that this was the biggest mistake of his career but this does little to reduce his guilt in the eyes of the Azeris.
We visited the cave paintings in Gobustan. Unfortunately the whole thing failed to capture my imagination. The place was overrun by tourists. It was our first encounter (but not the last during this trip) with Chinese tourists who struck us as very loud and inconsiderate. The contrast with the more familiar Japanese and Korean students, of which there were very few, could not have been greater.
From Baku we travelled to Shaki and on the way we stopped in Shamakhi to visit the Juma Mosque there. It was the first time in my life that I had been in a mosque.

The flame towers