After leaving Tblisi we crossed the border to Armenia. Again we had to walk a certain distance across the border but in this case it was not so far and we did not have to show our passports so often. We spent our first night in Dilijan. This was a place of no special interest in itself but rather a starting point for excursions. After that we continued to Yerevan. I must admit that prior to visiting Armenia my knowledge of the country was essentially zero. My impression now is of a very interesting culture. Our local guide told us a parable. The Armenians are like a swallow building its nest. The swallow invests a great deal of time and effort building the nest, laying eggs, feeding its chicks. Then a predator comes and destroys everything, the nest and its contents. Then the swallow begins again, and again, as long as it takes. The Armenians repeatedly built up their civilisation and were then attacked by different enemies who destroyed everything. Like the swallow they always started again. He said that when he named the centuries in which different buildings we saw were constructed we would notice that only certain centuries occurred and others did not. The reason is that in those other centuries there were wars which prevented such things being built.
As in the case of Georgia one of the most striking first impressions when entering Armenia was the script. It plays a central role in the identity of the Armenians. It was invented by Mesrop Mashtots in 405 AD. There is a theory that he also invented the Georgian alphabet but this is controversial. In Yerevan we visited the National Library which has a huge collection of manuscripts, both Armenian and international. We were told about some ancient Greek manuscripts which were translated into Armenian and then destoyed in the original. They would have been lost but could then be translated back into Greek so that they were saved. In many Armenian monasteries, which were centres of learning through the ages, there are jars buried in the floor. The purpose of these was as follows. If the monastery was attacked by Barbarians the valuable contents of the library would be hidden in these jars in the hope they would not be discovered. The invaders often knew that manuscripts were very valuable to the Armenians. Sometimes they would destroy them as a kind of cruelty. Sometimes they would kidnap them. In other words they would steal them and demand a ransom. Typically the ransom would be payed, showing how much the Armenians valued their culture. Our trip included more visits to monasteries than I would really have liked. At the same time I must say that when I entered one of these for the first time I was impressed. It had a special archaic feeling I have not had anywhere else. The fact that the walls were so dark and colourless is partly due to the ravages of time but even in the Cathedral of Etchmiadzin which is the seat of the head of the Armenian church and newly renovated the decoration is somehow modest, which I see as a positive thing. The church in the first monastery we visited communicated a sense of solemnity which affected even me as a non-religious person. The acoustics there are fantastic. Our local guide illustrated this impressively by singing traditional Armenien religious music there. A striking symbol of the cultural richness of Armenia is the statue of Mesrop Mashtots in front of the National Library, raising his arm to point at the alphabet.

Arriving in Yerevan I felt like I was arriving in the Soviet Union with lots of depressing Soviet architecture. On the other hand the pedestrian zone of the town is very attractive. Apart from the surroundings I was impressed by the large number of fashionably dressed young women walking around. It felt very cosmopolitan. I thought of a video which I have often watched of a young woman playing guitar and singing in the streets of Yerevan. The music is Latin American but the singer is Armenian. When I was there I was not able to identify the street – in the video the background is mostly quite blurred.
There was one point in the programme of our trip which was very important to me. This was a visit to the Genocide Memorial and Museum. In the museum I had a lot of striking impressions and learned a lot of interesting information. As I mentioned in a previous post, contrary to what one might think, the central example on the mind of the inventor of the concept of genocide was not the Holocaust but the case of Armenia. I mention in passing the statistic that there are about ten times the number of Armenians living outside the country as inside the country and that there is a big flow of money into the country coming from
expatriates. In the museum there are very graphic descriptions of the atrocities conducted during the genocide, with the perpetrators going out of their way to invent new ways of torturing their victims. The Turks even had a special philosophy behind this. I was reminded of accounts of the Hamas massacre of the 7th of October. One place which played a central role in these events was Van. I was in Van many years ago but at that time I was not paying attention to politics. Who was behind this genocide? It was started by Turkish nationalists, the ‘Young Turks’ but a lot of it was also carried out by Kurds, who attacked their Armenian neighbours. The border between Armenia and Turkey is closed to this day. Mount Ararat is very visible in Jerevan but it is not possible to approach it from the Armenian side. Some of those involved in the Armenian genocide were put on trial but these trials were stopped by Atatürk when he came to power. I always had a positive opinion of Atatürk and so this information disturbed me. When exiting the exhibition in the museum you can read the following telling quote from Adolf Hitler: ‘Wer redet heute noch von der Vernichtung der Armenier?’ [Who still talks today about the destruction of the Armenians?]
When I mentioned my trip to Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia to people, before and after it took place, they often reacted in a way that they felt a trip of this kind to be dangerous. I would just like to state that during the whole trip I never encountered anything which I felt to be threatening or dangerous. Of course we spent a lot of our time in the protected context of a group of tourists but Eva and I wandered around alone, off the beaten track, in various towns and we had no problems.

